Flashing neon lights on the ceiling and colorful upholstery banners over each seat of our tour bus, embroidered with “Have a Nice Day”, were sure signs that South Korea was a happy place with friendly people. Our charming tour guide pointed out that, unlike China, sculptures and dieties in Korea were always depicted smiling and also, unlike China, the Korean people were friendly, clean, and helpful. It seemed the only thing they were not happy about were the Chinese.

Korea’s spiritual soul has a deep respect for nature and its irregularities. They embrace the balance of life that is embodied in the concept of yin and yang. These concepts were all visible at the grand Seoul Museum, where ancient ceramics, sculpture, paintings and antiques were displayed and celebrated for their exquisite decoration, simplicity, smiling features, and even, with a nod to nature, their deliberate irregularities.

In striking contrast to the city, and conveniently located in the business district of Seoul right beside the City Hall, lies the peaceful walled compound of Deoksugung Palace, one of the Five Grand Palaces in the city once inhabited by various Korean royalties until the colonial period around the turn of the 20th century. It contains gardens and highly decorated painted pavilions and temples with smiling stone animal sculptures. The changing of the guard is an impressive display of cultural ceremony, and elaborate and colorful traditional costumes.

To experience the cosmopolitan streetside soul of the city, we visited Insadong, Seoul’s premiere shopping district and living museum. Here the narrow streets are lined with antique stores, art galleries, elegant boutiques, calligraphy shops, quaint teahouses, souvenir shops, restaurants….and smiling, friendly people.

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