Cartagena has gotten a bad rap from years of misinformed media, suffering from a past reputation for drug trafficking, kidnapping and violence. While, as in every destination, one must be alert and take precautions, it seems the bad guys here have pretty much killed each other off, and left behind a charming and breathtakingly beautiful city.
Besides the residential neighborhoods there are two main areas of Cartagena, the historic walled Old Town, with 16th century plazas, cobblestone streets, and colorful colonial buildings and, across the bay, the Bocagrande, a strip of high-rise hotels, crisp condo towers, and trendy clubs and cafes fronting the beach. Overlooking this all, is the fort of Castillo de San Felipe, built by the Spanish in 1657 for protection against pirates invading the bay for Colombia’s gold exports. A hike up the hill to see the view from the fort tower reveals its clear advantage over approaching enemies.
Within the walls of the Old Town, we visited the dungeons of Las Bovedas, once used by the Spaniards to store munitions and provisions and later as a jail, that is now an artisan center for colorful touristy craft and souvenir shops. A stop at the Inquisition Palace contained examples of the unspeakably cruel devices once used by the Spanish inquisition, where men were tortured, judged and convicted of very subjective crimes against religion. At the Navy Museum we were treated to a folkloric show featuring smooth, black-skinned young dancers, attesting to the city’s dark, historic legacy as a slave trading center.
We had a delightful guided walking tour through the irresistably photogenic streets of this old colonial neighborhood with its lively swirl of color, balconies spilling over with flowering bouganvillea, stylish renovated boutique hotels, and fine shops of Columbia’s famous emeralds and chic fashions. Heavy wooden doors are embellished with doorknockers, each uniquely designed to identify the families within, and decorative food carts sit lazily along the narrow sidewalks, under the shade of an umbrella.
The Plaza of the Church of San Pedro Claver bustles with tourists, sidewalk cafes, and children feeding the pigeons. A passing glance may steal a peek into the exquisite lobby of a small hotel or a quaint Colombian coffee house.
Visiting Cartagena was like discovering a secret that has been hiding in mystery and shadow, now revealed. It seems reminiscent of Cuba, I imagine Havana, but, at just under a million people, with a fraction of the population. With its seductive beaches, sensual atmosphere, and fairy tale beauty, this city won’t be a secret for long.