When I listen to NPR on the radio, I am always intrigued by the foreign correspondents from around the world, reporting from exotic sounding places like Paris, Brussels, Rome. And then there’s Ofeibea Quist-Arcton (what a great name that is!), who always closes with bravado and a dramatic flourish at the end of her story when she says, “Ofeibea Quist-Arcton…DakAAAAAr.” I often wondered what such a place was like, that deserved that profound and powerful pronunciation. When our ship approached the city, passing huge oil tankers and cargo ships, the sky and sea were the same color of hazy gray-brown, with a palpable odor of oil and dust. The port was piled high with stacks and stacks of imported onions and bags of corn, with black-skinned longshoremen lounging on top of the mounds, waiting to load the cargo on flatbed trucks.
French-speaking Dakar is the capital and largest city of Senegal and a major regional port due to its advantageous location as the westernmost city on the African mainland. Nearby Goree Island was used for the transport of slaves headed to America until trading was abolished in 1815. Today, Dakar is a sprawling cosmopolitan, earth-colored city, with its concrete buildings and red-brown dust, punctuated by the beautiful brightly colored native clothing worn by men and women, who are typically tall, slender, athletic, very dark-skinned and beautiful. And though vaccines exist, the ravages of polio are still evident here, with disfigured beggars on the streets. The characteristically peaceful country of Senegal is ninety-five percent Muslim and five percent Catholic, with a surprisingly significant Lebanese population.
The Soumbédioune Market is a labyrinth of hut-shops in a winding maze of colorful fabrics and clothing, beautiful baskets, wood carvings, and handicrafts. We toured past Independence Square, named for the country’s 1960 independence from Charles DeGaulle’s France, and beyond to the Parliament House, the Presidential Palace, Dakar University, the Door of Millennium Monument, to the controversial Monument of the Renaissance of Africa, which cost 24 million dollars, was designed by a North Korean, and features a scantily clad female, male, and child looking upward. Meant as a display of African pride and a symbol dedicated to Africa’s emergence from the oppressive European regimes that once ruled the continent, this massive bronze statue, built in 2010, is considerably larger than the Statue of Liberty and sits in a suburb of Dakar with commanding views of the sea and the city.
Beneath the monument lies the seaside Grand Mosque de Dakar, the center of Islamic life in the city. And we visited the Catholic Cathédrale Notre Dame des Victoires, which, interestingly, depicts the religious figures with characteristic local native features.
A visit to a sand painting gallery and factory revealed the native technique of applying glue to board, then dusting it with colored sands, and shaking off the residue to reveal a “painting” of traditional and native images.
My one day in Dakar gave me just enough confidence in my familiarity that I found myself casually wondering if I may have even passed by Ofeibea’s house, and thinking I will now listen to her exotic elocution from this distant place with a brand new, more personal perspective.
I guess I just have to add….Dakar was the first destination for Concorde when it entered commercial service with a full schedule in 1976. Paris – Dakar – Rio de Janeiro. Dakar was also a potential landing site for the Space Shuttle in the event of a “Transatlantic Abort” scenario, in case of an engine failure during climbout. On many launches you would hear the call from the launch controller, “Single-engine Dakar”, meaning that the shuttle could land at Dakar in the even of a two engine failure. Didn’t mean to “geek-out” on you there! Though I always new of the French connection, I never knew the population was 95% Muslim. Very interesting. I hope all your travels are as interesting. Doug
That’s fascinating, Doug! Dakar must have been chosen for these events because of it’s geographic location, I’m guessing…? And, I found most of northern Africa to be predominantly Muslim, with French and Portuguese influence.
I love the reference to the NPR reporter and her name. John and I are always commenting on the reporters and their wonderful names. We will make a list and compare. I also did not realize that Dakar was French, 95% Muslim and 5% Catholic. We look forward to hearing your perspective on the countries you are visiting!!
Very interesting place, and very colorful. Quite a history. Nice post about a place I always wanted to visit.