In Norway, it is said the locals believe that “Without Trondheim, all that would be left of the history book of Norway is the cover.” My longtime, dear friend once gave me a book she thought I would enjoy about medieval history set around the Trondheim region. It has since become, arguably, my favorite novel. Sigrid Undset’s tale of “Kristin Lavransdatter”, a trilogy of historical novels, is an epic saga of life in the thirteenth century, seen through the eyes of a passionate and headstrong woman, that very realistically depicts day-to-day life, social conventions, and political and religious undercurrents of the Viking period.
The third largest Norwegian city with a population of 185,000, Trondheim is known as “The City of Kings”. Over a thousand years old and one of the oldest of the country’s major cities, it is where Norway’s king is crowned. In the center of town, the magnificent Nidaros Cathedral, built from 1070, sits next to the 12th century Archbishop’s Palace and is the largest medieval building in Scandinavia. It’s altar sits over the grave of St. Olav, the Viking king who replaced the Nordic pagan religion with Christianity. The cathedral’s gothic facade is embellished with gargoyles and statues of biblical characters and Norwegian bishops and kings, sculpted in the early 20th century. On a hilltop overlooking the city is the stark tower of Kristiansten Fortress, built from the new town construction after the great fire of 1681 devastated Trondheim, to protect the city from its vulnerable east side.
We went to the edge of town in Sverresborg, to visit the Trondelag Folk Museum, sort of the Norwegian “Williamsburg”. It is an open air museum where visitors can walk among replicas of 17th century farmhouses, outbuildings and town streets, and listen to knowledgable guides describe the daily life of the times.
The simple wooden buildings with sod roofs were beautifully adorned with rosemåling, the traditional form of Norwegian decorative painting, and paned windows framed in lace curtains. It was a cloudy, moist day, and to further enhance the realistic setting, the mossy stone hills around these farmhouses were dotted with grazing sheep.
A center for many technology and engineering-oriented institutions and universities, the area is fueled by a large student population that buzzes with life. Nearby the university is the posh Singsaker neighborhood, with beautiful homes formerly occupied by esteemed professors and administrators. Unlike most Danes and Swedes, Norwegians own their homes and take great care and time to maintain and improve them. We saw lots of serious and casual bicyclists, and even a dedicated bike tow contraption at the bottom of a very steep hill. Bike stations can also be found throughout the city to borrow for public use.
Beneath the Fortress and along the River Nidelva is the Old City, with rows of wooden buildings resting atop log stilt foundations on the river’s edge. The old town bridge, or Gamle Bybro, was once flanked at each end by a toll and guardhouse. The access house on the west end still stands as a city icon known as Lykkens portal, or the Gate of Happiness, said to bring lifelong happiness to couples who kiss beneath it’s red carved arches. Our friendly guide, Ellen, recounted one gentleman, upon hearing that fable, replied jovially, “Why didn’t you tell me that thirty years ago!”
The busy street market in town was bustling with vendors under rows of white tents, selling local sausages, olives, cheeses, t-shirts, cheap souvenirs, food trucks, and even some smooth salesmen demonstrating a Ginsu-type multipurpose knife that no good cook should live without. And, from our veranda, we could see tiny Monk’s Island, once a monastery, a fortress, a prison, and a World War II anti-aircraft gun station, and now a popular tourist attraction and recreation site.
Trondhiem has a modern facade with it’s streetcars, young students, busy traffic, and contemporary shops, but step a few blocks away to Old Town, or visit the Nidaros Cathedral or Trondelag Museum, and you will be transported back, between the covers of the Norwegian history books.
Kristi, I finally have unlocked my password & can now comment on your posts. Loved your description and photos of Trondheim. The simplistic beauty of Norwegian design seems to have imprinted on your DNA.
Nancy, You should read the book I mention. For me, it really brings the period to life.