Because of its vulnerable geographic exposure, Sicily was much dominated during its history, by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Normans, Germans, Arabs, French, Spanish, Bourbons, and Italians, each leaving their architectural and cultural footprints, but never conquering the fiercely proud and independent spirit of its people. While Sicily has only been part of Italy since 1861, the island gained special status as an autonomous region in 1946, and is considered by mainland Italians to be a sort of defiant step-child. Though Italian is spoken on the island, it contains uniquely dialectal influences left from so many invaders.
A great example of this amalgamation of histories is the wonderfully preserved, almost mythical Mediaeval town of Erice, at least 2,000 years old, perched on top of the legendary Mount Eryx, a lofty 2,460 feet above sea level, overlooking the city of Trapani below. With a population of only about 300, that number swells in summer when the Trapani locals visit summer homes there to escape the heat of the city. Reached by winding hairpin roads, or a ride up a vertical cable car, a visit to Erice is like going back in time long ago. One can easily get lost in its maze of narrow cobbled streets, with brown, stone buildings, thirty ancient churches, and two remaining castles, one built by the Arabs, and the other of Norman construction. Today, Erice attracts mainly tourists, lured by it’s fascinating architecture, astounding views, historical significance, colorful ceramics, and artful marzipan, a sugar confection fashioned into realistic representations of fruits and vegetables.
We visited the beautiful city of Trapani (pronounced “Tra’-pani”) in the afternoon, when the streets were quiet and most of the shops were closed. Italians enjoy a daily “riposa” from about 1:00 pm until 4:00 pm, to relax in their favorite pleasure….eating. Typically, Italians eat a light breakfast, a typical midday, home-cooked meal at 3:00 pm, and a late, light supper. During these afternoon hours, shops are closed, the city is deserted with silence all around, except for the vague clinking of silverware and casual conversation heard from the open windows of local homes.
So, as a tourist, my only option was to window shop, though we did find a small, but well-stocked wine store that was open, perhaps because of hopeful business from our cruise ship in town for the day, of which we were happy to oblige. The friendly merchant cheerfully held our purchases in storage until I returned to carry them to the ship on my way back from my explorations.
Meanwhile, I wandered all about, along the deserted pedestrian streets lined with beautiful architectural buildings, past some open air cafes and flowered balconies, enjoying the cast shadows and golden light of the late afternoon sun on the city and hills of Trapani.
Love reading your reports!
So beautifully written Kristy. So glad you two are enjoying your trip! Looking forward to your next adventure!