The Maltese Falcon. The Dashiell Hammett story of crime, intrigue, murder, and mystery made into the noir classic movie with Humphrey Bogart as detective Sam Spade, was not even filmed in Malta, but it has been my only real association with this small country of three islands…until now. Malta is anything but “noir”. It has beautiful beach resorts that attract northern Europeans in the winter, a diverse and ancient history that includes a rich mixture of Roman, Greek, French, Portuguese, British, Turkish, and Arabic, very friendly people, and a sunny, temperate Mediterranean climate. Sorrento was great but, fickle me, I think I am now in love with Valletta. Like an older woman, it is a bit more experienced, mature, worldly, and cosmopolitan.
This UNESCO World Heritage City and capital of Malta, described as “one of the most concentrated historic areas in the world”, is a masterpiece of sturdy, imposing, and noble baroque architecture within the bastion of ancient stone walls and strategic 16th century fortresses, rising steeply from two deep harbors. It has been coined as “a city of palaces built by gentlemen for gentlemen”, and has earned the nickname “Superbissima”, meaning “Most Proud”.
The Valletta waterfront, a popular place among locals and tourists, was once used as a warehouse with the original doors brightly painted in different colors to indicate the contents stored within. Now the beautifully restored area, fringed with shade trees and leafy palms along the wide promenade, is lined with trendy restaurants beckoning visitors to enjoy a glass of crisp Maltese wine, while watching the view over the harbor to the island fortresses and mega yachts moored beyond.
And from the waterfront, visitors can walk the steep switchback road up the old wall to town, hire one of the many waiting horse carriages to take them to the top for a tour of the Old City, or ride an elevator that goes up 197 feet to the Upper Barrackka Gardens, the highest point of Valletta, overlooking the Grand Harbor.
While there are many significant sights to see in this distinguished city, I decided to stroll about with no particular goal except to see what I could see, sometimes willingly getting lost exploring it’s broad boulevards and narrow, hilly side streets that might unexpectedly come to a dead end. My bewilderment was met with the concern of a friendly local man asking if I needed directions, which he graciously gave. Everyone here officially speaks English, second only to Maltese, their national language of Semitic origin that incorporates English, Italian, and French.
At a streetside cafe, I had a glass of local wine with a friend, as people brushed by our table. Just opposite, in a tiny boutique with carefully chosen clothing and accessories, I talked to the savvy young shopkeeper about international fashion. Just off the busy pedestrian friendly Republic Street, I discovered a corner wine bar and, inspired by the wine I had just sampled at the cafe, I looked over the shelves for local vintages. The sharply dressed, friendly, entrepreneurial proprietor came to my assistance with advice, and offered me tastings from several bottles as we engaged in a lengthy and enthusiastic conversation about wine, politics, travel, and business, eager to learn each other’s perspective.
I continued on to Freedom Square, featuring the contemporary Parliament Building built from 2011 to 2015, and said to have generated considerable controversy due to its modern design and steep cost. It has been compared by the locals to a cheese grater, as the facade is made up of thousands of laser cut stone panels, though I found it to blend in pleasant harmony with the classic architecture surrounding it, like this city itself…a lovely, alluring and irresistible marriage of unique cultures, rich history, beauty, and sophistication.
Thank you for sharing your experience & photos of this lovely old city. Your blog reminds me of our grade school Weekly Reader. A favorite to look forward to on a weekly basis.
Pat
Thanks, Pat. I’m really glad you enjoy it. I have a lot more great places to tell you about from this fabulous trip, so stay tuned!