The tsunami tragedy is still fresh in the minds and hearts of the people of Thailand, where the popular resort island of Phuket was practically obliterated because of it. Nestled in the protection of the Gulf of Thailand, the sleepy island of Koh Samui survived unscathed. It is the second largest island of Thailand after Pukhet, with a local population of 63,000, and now surpasses it in tourism. It was “discovered” by the hippies of the 70’s who were attracted by its sandy beaches, coconut trees, cheap prices, and some of the best snorkeling and diving in the world. They escaped there to stay in simple wooden huts built on stilts and live a thrifty life in paradise. And paradise it is. It now has everything from those simple wooden huts to lavish resorts where people from all over the world come for a week, a month, or to permanently elude the real world. But the attitude is still relaxed and unchanged.

We headed out on an excursion to take a Thai cooking class and ended up immersed in the island’s laid back vibe with our friendly host, “Bob”. We visited the local market, patronized by everyonefrom housewives to five-star resort chefs. Bob remarked that, “in Thailand, if it moves you can eat it, and absolutely nothing is wasted”, which was evidenced in the many colorful and unique food stalls.

We were then herded into our van and driven to the fabulous Nora Beach Resort and Spa, where our cooking class would take place outside under a breezy pavilion deck on a beach with pristine white sand and a gently lapping surf. The resort staff provided the prepared ingredients for each recipe which we finished on propane burners under the tutelage of Bob, also a professional chef, and Paula, sous chef at the resort’s Prasuthon Restaurant. Our three-course lunch included traditional Thai dishes of Deep Fried Stuffed Crabmeat in Crab Shell, Tom Kha Kai or Chicken Soup in Coconut, and Shrimp Pad Thai, accompanied by a crisp white wine or local beer. Really delicious and easy.

Deep Fried Stuffed Crabmeat in Crab Shell, Koh Samui, Thailand

Chicken Soup in Coconut, Koh Samui, Thailand

Shrimp Pad Thai, Koh Samui, Thailand

According to Bob, island legend dictates that a visit to Koh Samui is not valid without a view of Big Buddha. So, to make it official, we were whisked off to see the holy Buddhist icon located in an outdoor temple nearby. The plaza area below was surrounded by souvenir market stalls and a small pagoda-style structure for praying monks. A walk up the 60-plus steps to the top ended beneath the giant golden seated figure surrounded by a colonnade and views of the island below. Despite the kitschy tourist attractions, the site had a calm reverence about it. And, it signified that we could now proclaim ourselves official visitors to the island of Koh Samui.

Young Buddhist boys, we learned, must spend time at a monastery upon reaching early adulthood and until then, the religion does not allow them to entertain desires for women. Their monastic duty can be whatever length of time they can afford. Bob told us he took three months of his youth to fulfill the obligation. Today’s young men are less flexible though many strive to devote nine days, which is a lucky number in Buddhism. Devotees who visit the temples buy incense and bundles of yellow flowers to offer to the diety. Many will also bring plates of food meant for their deceased loved ones, to sustain them in heaven. Typically, shoes are to be removed before entering the shrine, though in our case that was thankfully waived to spare our feet from the hot stone steps in the blistering heat.

The allure of Koh Samui is magnetic. It is one of those pockets of serenity that exists in the world and once discovered, it beckons the hippie in me, tempting me to return.

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