I must go back for a moment to Southern Vietnam, and return to an experience I needed some time to synthesize before I share my thoughts.
While in Saigon, we took a day trip about 30 miles northwest of the city to the district of Cu Chi where, from 1967, it served as base for the 269th Aviation Battalion of the United States Army during the Vietnam War. But to see what really went on, you have to dig deeper. Beneath this countryside is an immense network of about 155 miles of elaborate underground tunnels, dug by hand with crude tools and bare hands, originally built by the Vietnamese locals to hide from the French occupation in the 1940’s, but was later expanded and served as headquarters for the Viet Cong.
This network, parts of which were several storeys deep, honeycombed the ground and included countless trapdoors, constructed living areas, storage faciilities, weapon factories, field hospitals, command centers, schools, and kitchens. The tunnels allowed the Viet Cong to live and operate unknown to their enemy, thus able to mount surprise attacks and stage gruesome traps even within the perimeters of the US military base.
We were shown how the small entrances were disguised above ground and the method in which they were entered. Those of us unaffected by claustrophobia could crouch through a short section of the underground passage to simulate the experience. And, our guide demonstrated the many ways in which the crafty Viet Cong could use their simple uniform issue checkered neck scarf for their own warmth or as a bandage, as well as a weapon to bind, gag, blindfold, or strangle the enemy.
Though paths have been carved through the jungle to now guide the many tourists that visit, one can still get a feeling for the heavy humid atmosphere and dense tangled foliage of wartime, and see the foxholes and bomb craters that still remain as a stark reminder of the devastation. The area features a shooting range where visitors may pay a fee for the eerie chance to fire one of the war weapons. I chose to shoot an M16 rifle, standard issue for our fighting soldiers at that time, to try to get the vaguest glimpse of what it really felt like, without, of course, the stark fear and terror of the moment.
The war left its mark on both sides in different ways. Our native guide, Phee, who referenced the conflict as their “civil war”, offered some objective and informative insight. He related to us a personal story of the period after the war, especially during 1978 and 1979, when Vietnam refugees known as the Vietnam Boat People escaped the country by sea at great personal expense in crowded open boats, and suffered appaling hardships as they fled the new Communist government. At the time, his aunt was desperate to send her young son to America for a chance at a better life and offered to send Phee also, who was then about 16 years old. He chose not to leave his family, but his cousin embarked on the difficult journey across the ocean. He was never seen or heard from again, and no trace of him was ever found.
The more I see, the more I learn…..and the more I will never forget.
Glad you did this. They didn’t have the firing range when we visited. Because I was the smallest in the group, I “got” to drop through the tunnel opening. Whole experience was unnerving. Keep thinking of our soldiers, especially the tunnel rats that had to go in to clear the tunnels not knowing what was there in the dark. Great post … as usual!
I did the “drop”, too. Pretty small space. And, yes…the whole experience was unnerving, but glad I did it.
Kristine, this was my favorite part of my Vietnam trip with Charmaine. We crawled through many tunnels, however the wouldn’t let me go through the last one because I was too big. (Dean read fat). Thanks for the rememberance.
Tom Hall
Oh my gosh! The pictures you took are so telling!! I can’t believe the people were able to survive in such constrained quarters! Did you actually descend into the tunnel? If you did, how did it feel? I really liked this blog, Kristy!!!
The part of the tunnel I went into was about 3 feet tall and wide, (larger, I think than normal), and about 50 feet long, but it also had some path lighting, which was not original. But, the original tunnels lead to larger rooms for schools, kitchens, workrooms, etc….as you see in the photo of the uniform factory.
Kristy, I am greatly appreciating this vicarious way of travelling with you! This is another great post!
Thanks, Steve….this was a tough one.