We docked at the deep port of Maura, a city in the tiny sovereign state of Brunei Darussalam on the north coast of the island of Borneo. Apart from its coastline on the South China Sea, it is completely surrounded by the Sarawak state of Malaysia and, with a total population of about 421,000, Brunei is about the size of Delaware. That’s where the similarity ends.

It is a total monarchy, ruled by the locally revered Sultan Hassanil Bolkiah, the second richest royalty in the world with an estimated fortune of just over 20 billion….that’s with a “b”. Tiny Brunei has been ranked as the fifth richest nation out of 182 for its petroleum and natural gas fields. Everywhere you look, there are opulent government buildings and government employees. The state provides for its protection workers, such as police and firefighters, with dedicated housing. In the capital city of Bandar Seri Begawan, government-provided low income housing sprawls as far as the eye can see, in rows of identical apartment buildings different only with color-coded roofs to designate the income eligibility of its occupants. Brunei takes care of its subservient people.

And in exchange for that, the Sultan dictates strict Sharia law in this country where seventy-five percent of it’s population are Muslim. This includes the severance of limbs for theft, death by stoning for adulterers, a total ban on alcohol sale and consumption, and the death sentence for drug possession.

The country’s wealth is apparent the minute you step foot in Bandar Seri Begawan, the central district of commerce, finance, and government. Our tour began with the majestic and opulent Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, the country’s largest. Built in 1994 in honor of the Sultan’s birthday, it will accommodate 5,000 people, under the larger dome for men and the smaller dome for women. No one can enter the ornate interior without adhering to the strict dress code of removing shoes and donning a floor length robe and head covering.

Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, Brunei Darussalam

Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, Brunei Darussalam

Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, Brunei Darussalam

At the white-domed Royal Regalia Museum, we wandered through exhibits of luxurious items from the Sultan’s lavish coronation and other celebrations, including His Majesty’s royal chariot, complete with the procession of attending figures resplendent in the full uniform of the occasion. No photos were allowed except in the main entrance hall, where there was a lesser chariot on view.

Another stop offered a distant view of Istana Nurul Iman, the Sultan’s glittering, walled, hilltop home and enigmatic symbol of Brunei’s enduring monarchy. The world’s largest residential palace, it encompasses 2 square miles of floor space, including 1,788 rooms, five swimming pools, a 110-car garage, and a banquet hall for 400 guests. The palace is not open to the public except once a year at the end of Ramadan, when the locals can line up for the chance to meet the royal couple. Nearby are the exclusive Royal Polo Grounds and the extravagant residence of the Sultan’s sister.

On our way back to the ship, we passed the immaculate grounds and buildings of the Empire Hotel and Country Club and large suburban residences of those of the upper class. With the future of Brunei’s oil and gas reserves uncertain, time will tell if this country can sustain its delicate balance on top of the world.

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