I don’t need to say exactly how many years ago I was last in Italy, but there were still remnants of scaffolding in Florence then, from the long reconstruction effort after the great flood of that beautiful city. When I arrived this time, at Leonardo Da Vinci-Fiumicino Airport outside of Rome, I was glad to be back again. We were met with friendly assistance, and a helpful signora to drive us 45 minutes to Civitavecchia, the “Port of Rome”.
Originally an Etruscan settlement and a harbor since the second century, Civitavecchia (pronounced Chee-vee-ta-VEK-ee-uh) is now a major cruise and ferry port and a main starting point for sea connection from central Italy. The original and imposing Forte Michelangelo, so named after the well-known Italian artist who is credited with the design of the upper part of the fort’s “maschio” tower, sits right at the cruise pier, and the old city walls weave in and out of the modern city built around it. The city’s mediterranean climate and nearby proximity to Rome has long attracted visitors to it’s thermal hot spring baths, some still popular today, as well as the nearby archaeological remnants of bathhouses from the Etruscan period.
Though thousands of cruise ship passengers pass through Civitavecchia each year, it is not exactly a tourist destination. But, the compact city center of Chivitavecchia is a low-keyed, relaxing place for travelers to rest for a day or so after a long flight, and it has a few sights of its own such as some charming churches, an archaeological museum, and some nearby historic ruins. It’s seaside promenade is lined with hotels, al fresco restaurants serving pizza and fresh fish, locals fishing from rocky points on the waterfront, and tourists rolling their luggage to the cruise port. We stayed at the Hotel de La Ville, overlooking the waterfront from our balustrade balcony, with detailed mosaic flooring, high ceilings and a broad marble staircase.
Our friendly, young hotel concierge gave us directions to the best nearby wine store, which took us off the main waterfront where few tourists ventured, to a tiny corner shop filled with chatting locals tasting wine and small bites of antipasti served by its cheerful and busy proprietor. In the international language of gestures, he helped us choose some bottles to purchase for our trip, and kindly thanked us with a complimentary glass of fizzy prosecco and some bruschetta.
My memory from years ago was pleasantly refreshed by the friendly Italian people with their lilting and animated language, the somehow acceptable juxtaposition of ancient architecture nestled comfortably beside a crowded mid-day McDonald’s restaurant, and the easy-going attitude of a culture that accepts life, love, food, and wine with pleasure and gusto.
Will try!
Awesome post for being the first one on a long trip! Keep it up!