I wrote about Cartagena in 2015 (see my post “Colombia’s Hidden Secret”) and now, on my third visit to this beautiful city, I am still captivated. Forget what you might think still exists about gangs and drug lords of the past. Cartagena de Indias, as the city was known in the colonial era, has been redeemed and is now a popular tourist destination.
I took a ride on the local Hop On Hop Off bus to get a quick, but broader view of the city in the too-short time we had in this port, which included a walking tour of the historic Old Town where we headed first before the brutal midday heat settled in. Cartagena’s Old Town is a Unesco World Heritage Site, lying within an imposing 8-miles of centuries-old colonial walls. The official entrance to the fortified city, founded in the 16th century, is Puerta del Reloj or the Clock Gate, beyond which is the Plaza de los Coches, one of many cobbled squares within the city, including the Plaza de Bolivar, named for Simon Bolivar, celebrated in Colombia for establishing it’s independence. There, a noble statue of Bolivar on horseback overlooks the eighteenth century seat of the Holy Office of the Inquisition in Cartagena, known as the Palace of the Inquisition. A beautiful example of Spanish colonial architecture, within its walls were committed unspeakable tortures and executions performed by the Inquisition to Jews and non-Catholics believed guilty of crimes such as black magic and adultery.
Walking is the best way to really appreciate the sensual atmosphere of this spectacularly preserved city and it is easy to get happily lost in it’s maze of narrow, cobblestoned streets, bougainvillea-covered balconies, colorful architecture, and impressive churches.
Just outside the ancient walls is the neighborhood of Getsemani, a district once characterized by crime and drug dealing, now reclaimed as Cartagena’s hippest neighborhood of popular hotspots and boutique hotels. Back on the HOHO bus, we continued on past the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, the greatest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in their colonies, strategically situated overlooking the bay to protect the city from pirates and unwelcome invaders. And between Cartagena Bay and the Caribbean Sea lies Bocagrande, an area that contains the bulk of the city’s tourist facilities and the Cartagena Naval Base. Lined with long beaches and filled with hotels, shops, restaurants, nightclubs, galleries, skyscrapers and high-rise condos, this shiny area has seen property values rise with its popularity among international buyers.
Considered an industry along with tourism in Cartagena is the National Beauty Contest of Colombia, founded in 1934 and celebrated with images of the winners preserved in tiles on the sidewalk in front of the Pageant office in the Old City. The winner of each contest is sent to compete for Miss Universe with the first runner-up to vie for Miss International, and local beauties are nominated to be named Miss Independence. But the undisputed Queen of the Caribbean Coast, the grand dame of them all, remains the city itself.
