I looked forward to Vietnam with curiosity and admittedly, some apprehension. I came of age during the Vietnam War and clearly remember watching TV on July 1, 1970 as numbers were drawn for those born in 1951, to see if my brother would be called to the draft. After my visit to the country, I realize that its history not only leaves a lot for me to learn, but also to discover what of it is truth.

Our itinerary names Ho Chi Minh City as our port stop. But, the locals still call it Saigon, and it will always be Saigon to me. It is a bustling city of about 8 million inhabitants, and the motorbike capital of the world. Rush hour, or any hour for that matter, is clogged with motorbikes, as it is clearly the most efficient and popular way to commute in the city. As a result, many people wear face masks to protect from the sun and exhaust. Masks are even found in the local markets, fabricated in a variety of prints and colors to coordinate with the latest fashion.

Our first stop was the Reunification Palace, originally built by the French in 1868 as the Presidential Palace. It was later destroyed, but rebuilt in the 1960’s and still retains that style of architecture and decor. The Palace is especially important for its deep association with the fall of Saigon where, in 1975, the Southern forces officially surrendered to the Revolutionary forces and the Vietnam War came to an end.  And when we were there, the city was earnestly preparing for the fortieth anniversary celebration of their “Reunification Day” on April 30, 2015.  We visited the eerie halls and rooms of the bunkers winding below the Palace, frozen in time with the original, sparse furniture and equipment used during the Vietnam War.

Then, it was on to the crowded and bustling Binh Tay wholesale market, with stall after stall of fabrics, housewares, clothing, fresh and dried foods of all kind….everything packed into a colorful, visual feast. Saigon also has some of the oldest pagodas and temples in Vietnam, where Taoism and Confucianism merge with Buddhism in the tranquil and incense-filled atmosphere within the walls of these ornately decorated complexes.

Saigon was controlled by the French from 1859 until 1941 bringing agriculture and architecture to the country along with oppression and suffering. The architectural influence remains in many of the historical and contemporary buildings. Finally, a visit to a lacquerware factory revealed the painstaking process used to produce this signature art craft with 17 layers of lacquer, each separately applied and polished, over intricate inlay designs on wood to achieve the signature high gloss finish.

I came to this city to discover more…and what I found was that I still need to discover more.

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